~ THOUGHTS ~
Big love to Nautica for supporting me on this surf trip and providing me with a bunch of clothing and gear for my escapades. A go-to combo for me on this trip was their “Classic Crewneck T-Shirt” in navy and their “French Terry Signature Joggers” in grey heather. These two pieces were staples throughout my trip- perfect for staying comfortable on the long trip down to Mexico, as well as those early mornings checking all of the waves to figure out where we were going to surf.
I recently took a surf trip south of the border. Way south. I left behind Los Angeles and all of its baggage. I left behind the paved roads, overpriced luxuries, and mediocre waves, and swapped them out for dirt roads, overly affordable tacos and beer, and righthand sand point-breaks that would make even the most stubborn goofy foot surfers salivate.
This is a voyage that has been one of my deepest desires for over ten years. I can distinctly remember flipping through surf magazines and watching endless surf films as a grom and wanting nothing more than to surf those sand points in Mexico- mind surfing at its finest. I actually made the journey to this area about a year ago. I was hired as a photographer to shoot imagery for a surf brand on a quick 3 day trip. However, I was only able to sneak a couple of surf sessions between working, and on top of that we didn’t receive any proper swell. I left that trip with a taste of the potential that this region in Mexico has, but it was truly nothing more than a little tease.
Fast forward about a year. My good friend and great surfer, Alex Smith was visiting me in California. He was staying at my place and as we were catching up about life, we put the idea of a surf trip out there. Us both being regular foots, mainland Mexico instantly came to mind. Shortly thereafter we were pulling up swell charts and plane tickets, and brainstorming the plausibility of making the trek we have both been dreaming of our whole lives. We quickly realized a great swell was coming, the airfare was reasonable, and a friend even put us in touch with surf guide that would be able to put us on the best waves and give us a rad experience. Check, check, andddddd check, mate. Everything felt right, and when everything feels right- you do it. I’ve learned over the years that following your gut is usually the best call. We pulled the tigger, booked our tickets, and had a couple of days to lock down our surfboard quivers, find a filmer/photographer, and get our asses in paddling shape.
What followed was a mirage of good times and good waves. The trip was everything we had been hoping for, it just took a lot more work then we had imagined. It seems like sand-bottomed point breaks are everyone’s dream. Sand is much more user friendly then its harder-and often times jagged cousin, reef. The only problem with sand is that it is constantly moving and in return constantly changing how the wave breaks. It could be breaking all-time one week and then the next week it could be breaking terribly. We spent a lot of time driving between waves, checking them, and trying to find the best place to surf. Every moment felt like we might as well just roll dice and go to a random wave or point to surf.
Regardless of the (minor) difficulties we faced on out trip, we returned home with an archives of good waves and memories that we will hold onto for the rest of our lives. Memories recorded on film photographs, digital photographs, and videos (and some that we will keep somewhere locked away only for ourselves).
This is what a last minute, go-for-it surf trip to Mexico with one your best mates looks like.
It's not a proper strike mission unless you're packing last minute and rushing to the airport. 9 surfboards (slightly packed) and ready to go.
Things start to get blurry by the end of a long travel day.
Red-eye flight, somewhere between Los Angeles and Huatulco.
The Mexican version of Honey Bunches of Oats, and coffee-hold the milk and sugar.
The breakfast of Mexican* champions.
Our daily routine went something like this- rise with the sun, grab some quick food and coffee for fuel, hop in the car, check right point-break number one, check right point break number two, assess the tide and wind, check right point number three, go back to right-point number two, surf, surf, and surf some more, lunch, siesta, check right point number three again, surf right-point number one (while wondering if right-point number four would have been the best call), catch an epic sunset over the pacific ocean, return to camp, try to eat dinner and simultaneously stay awake, crash… HARD, wake up, do it again.
Only seeing your tracks on the beach, and no one else’s is usually a good sign.
Wave check, number four?
It was all a mirage…
It wasn’t all a mirage…
What’s better- waxing a new board, or surfing a new wave?
Answer: surfing a new wave on a new board.
Getting closer to the action at the point.
After catching the glimpse of a solid set at the point, it’s time to run! Froth levels are at an all time high.
The priority on this trip was capturing video, but we got a couple photos here and there. Stay tuned for an epic vlog from this trip.
Soaking it all in.
Time to pack up camp up camp and head to the next destination.
Exploring the local culture in the small town our surf camp was based in.
Image 1: One of my favorite things about traveling is the new, weird, and unique things you come across. This little red transportation device is called a Tuk Tuk in many countries, I wonder if it is called the same in this part of Mexico?
Image 2: A fresh coco a day keeps the doctor away.
One of our friends claimed this little stand in Huatulco has the best tacos he has ever tasted- in the world. We had to test his theory. 10 tacos later… we concluded that they were indeed the best tacos we have ever tasted, but I find myself saying that quite often…
Refreshments after a long days work.
We shared our bounty with a local Caballero passing by. Safe to say that he was stoked.
That structure we parked out car next to is called a Palapa. They were life-savers on our trip. If it’s mid-day and you don’t have any shade, you are toast (burnt and extra crispy). The sand would get so hot mid-day that it would burn our feet and we found ourselves sprinting from under safety of the Palapa to the waters edge quite often.
A view that never gets old.
Our friend and talented filmer Gabriel posted up and making his own shade.
On our trip we encountered right point breaks.
Many right point-breaks, sometimes stormy.
And yet, even more right point-breaks.
Me tasting the local flavor of the aforementioned point break.
Taking a little sandwich break in between surf sessions.
Heading back to camp after a longggggg day. sunburnt and stoked.
No trip is complete without an impromptu journey into the city for a night out with the boys. The prices were about 1/20th that of what I am used to in Los Angeles, the people were more friendly, and people here actually know how to dance. This being said, the real question is- who is Miguel Majon?
Mexican dreamscape. That’s all folks ~
~ THINGS ~
Clothing by Nautica
Shot by me
DO COOL THINGS ~ TAKE COOL PHOTOS.